While the bustling stars of Moroccan tourism, namely Marrakech and Fez, get overcrowded and uncomfortable, the capital city of Rabat is relaxed and pleasant, with the feel of a small city.
In the morning, explore the ancient Kashbah of the Udayas. For breakfast, find the Café Maure overlooking the sea and have a sweet Moroccan mint tea and almond biscuits (15 dirham, about $1).
After rocking the Kashbah, head back into town through the heart of the medina on Avenue Mohammed V. Food stands and carts line the pedestrian street and you can find spicy lamb sandwiches, meatballs, sweets — all of it delicious and safe to eat. Nothing should cost more than 50 dirham, and really shouldn’t even be more than 20. Watch to see what the locals pay so you don’t get ripped off. If you aren’t feeling so adventurous, on the same street find the restaurant Taghazout; try a tagine.
You may choose to continue walking up Avenue Mohammed V to see a bit more of the modern city or you can take a taxi to the ruins of Chellah. Again, you will have to barter with the taxi driver; the 10-minute drive should cost about 10–15 dirham. Chellah (10 dirham) was founded by Carthaginians and passed from Roman to Arab rule. It is now an impressive breeding ground for storks.
For dinner, head back into town and to the popular and traditional Dar Naji, near the tramway station Medina Rabat. If you didn’t get tagine for lunch (or even if you did), now is the time (120 dirham).
Finally, if you feel like hitting a third UNESCO World Heritage site (both the Kashbah and Chellah are) before you turn in, check out Hassan Tower and the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. The entrance is closed at night, but they may be even more impressive in the starlight. Alternatively, you could squeeze these into your morning.
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