Exploring Rio Dulce, Guatemala

The Caribbean coast of Guatemala is a fascinating area, steeped in history from slaves to escaping Nazi soldiers.

Rio Dulce serves as a gateway to the region, sitting on the main highway from the capital city to the north of the country. As such the town itself is ugly, choked with huge trucks and tuk tuks negotiating the tight roads in the stifling heat, but out on the water a different world remains to be discovered.

From the dock, take a speedboat to the old Spanish fort, built to protect merchant ships holed up on Lake Izabal from marauding British pirates. Nowadays the galleons have been replaced by sailboats stored away from the Caribbean, safely out of reach of the worst of hurricane season.

On the other side of the water, enter a network of mangrove swamps where a number of guesthouses, such as Hotel Kangaroo, offer accommodation, food and kayak rental so you can continue your exploration under your own steam. If you feel like heading slightly further afield, take a speed boat down a spectacular canyon towards Livingston, a Garifuna community that can only be reached by boat. Rumor has it one beachfront hotel used to serve as a rest stop for former Nazi soldiers on their way to South America.

Stop off at the hot springs on the way down, or check into one of the hotels en route. El Hotelito Perdido offers jungle adventure set back from the main river. To finish off your adventure, visit the Caribbean beaches at Livingston before continuing by boat to Belize.