The second largest city in Guatemala is located in the western highlands and is home to a large number of Mayan indigenous groups.
Quetzaltenango, also known as Xela, bears traces of past German influence in the form of the interesting Gothic architecture in the main square. Away from the grandeur of the center of town, the city is populated by makeshift corrugated iron and breeze block homes, arranged against a spectacular backdrop of towering hills.
Start your day with breakfast at El Cuartito, where a big meal washed down with locally-sourced Fair Trade coffee will set you back around $5. Take a stroll around the center of town, stopping in to visit the cathedral and theater before climbing Cerro de Baul to look over the city.

© Christopher William Adach | Flickr
Walk back down into town for lunch at Luna Cafe, where many meals feature novel takes on local ingredients ($10). After allowing your food to digest, visit Museo Ixkik, which provides a great window into the local Mayan handicraft. Stock up on some souvenirs at the end of your visit ($20).
Wander through the local market, drinking in the sights and sounds and sampling some local produce. Rice-based drink “horchata” ($1) is particularly tasty and popular with locals. After you’ve soaked up the atmosphere in the market, go for dinner at Sabor de la India, which is the best curry you’ll find in Latin America ($15).
If you still have some energy after dinner, visit Guatemala’s oldest bar, Salon Tecun, to drink the night away with some of the city’s students and intellectuals ($3 per beer).
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