The crumbling colonial center of Leon makes it a charming place to spend a couple of days, soaking up the intellectual, political atmosphere around town.
Start your day at El Desayunazo ($6) where big portions will set you up for the day ahead. Get up and about before the midday heat saps your energy, and go for a walk around the center of town. Here you will find the cathedral, which is the largest in Central America, along with many other crumbling relics of Leon’s past.
As the day starts to get hotter, duck into the Museo Ruben Dario to escape the sun and take in some art. Nicaragua’s most famous poet lived in this house until he was a teenager, and some of his personal effects are still here.
Go for lunch at CocinArte ($10), a vegetarian spot that draws visitors with its unique surroundings and relaxed atmosphere. In the afternoon, learn about Leon’s rebellious past with a visit to the Museum of Heroes and Martyrs, which commemorates those who died fighting to free Nicaragua from dictatorship.
After a dose of history, head back into town as the sun goes down, eating an ice cream from one of many roadside stalls ($2) and people watching in the square. Once you get hungry again, go to El Sesteo ($20), the oldest restaurant in town, where you can pass a long, leisurely dinner looking over the square.
Tap into the revolutionary spirit of the town at GO BAR or La Olla Quemada (beers $3), drinking local brews with friendly locals late into the night.
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